Tailcoat: White Tie evening coat complete outfit

Tailcoat tuxedo jacket

Appropriate for white tie events, the tailcoat is a notch above in formality from a tuxedo (white tie events are the most formal dress code, above black tie events). Tailcoats are black with satin trim and splits into two elongated points on the back. Worn with a white waistcoat and black trousers and a stiff starched white formal shirt with a turndown collar and white marcella bowtie.

Morning coat vs evening coat

A morning coat is worn in the daytime for formal events whereas the tailcoat is worn for evening events for white tie. The morning coat has a peak lapel, is single breasted and swoops back in a continuous arc. The evening tailcoat has a six-button near double-breasted front that has a horizontal cut inward at the waist and a double tail configuration.

Morning suit wedding

A morning suit is the most formal outfit for a man to wear during the daytime (generally before 5 p.m.) and traditionally worn for weddings. The coat is typically dark and has a rounded sweeping front that goes long in the back. It is worn with a double-breasted waistcoat and grey striped trousers and a tophat.

Possible colors of your tailcoat

Black tailcoat

White tailcoat

Red tailcoat

Blue tailcoat

Grey tailcoat

Navy tailcoat

Purple tailcoat

Other tailcoat

Morning suit information

What is “morning dress”?

Morning dress is the dress code for daytime formal attire worn by men that’s comprised of a cutaway coat, a waistcoat, and trousers.

When is morning dress appropriate?

Morning dress is — as the name implies — for daytime formal events only. It is not to be worn at events beginning after 6 p.m. Think of morning dress as the daytime equivalent of white tie evening wear in terms of formality. Morning dress is not, however, the equivalent of wearing a tuxedo in black tie. The black tie daytime companion would be wearing a stroller suit. 

History of morning dress

Morning dress originated in the United Kingdom and evolved from the frock coat in the Edwardian era. It’s arguable that the Duke of Windsor popularized its use as he loathed wearing a frock coat. 

Over time, morning dress became the proper attire for formal day dress codes and the preferred choice for elites to wear to daytime weddings, government functions, formal church services, and social events — the most popular today being the Royal Ascot horse race. 

Famously, the Royal Family in the United Kingdom has often worn morning dress during wedding ceremonies and other formal daytime functions. Prince Charles and his sons wore morning dress to Charles’ 2005 wedding to Camilla Parker Bowles. Guests to royal weddings for Prince Harry and Prince William also frequently worn morning dress, too (although both princes wore their military dress uniforms for the ceremony). 

While not worn frequently outside the United Kingdom, the Japanese Emperors Hirohito and Akihito have both worn morning dress at official state functions. Akihito wore morning dress during his proclamation in which he abdicated the throne in 2019 and his son also wore morning dress for his ascension. American President Ronald Reagan worn morning dress alongside Hirohito during his visit to Tokyo in 1983. And President John F. Kennedy was the last American president to wear morning dress to an inauguration in 1961. 

Morning coat style

The morning coat, also called a cutaway coat, is single breasted with a single button closure that goes into an oblique rounded and elongated “tail” that extends to the back of the knees. While most morning coats have peak lapels, but a notch lapel or even a shawl collar can be worn and have the same level of formality although they’re seen much less often. The jacket is often in a black herringbone, and this is the most formal expression of the morning suit. The jacket has a breast pocket but no lower pockets. 

Morning waistcoat style

The morning waistcoat can either match the fabric of the jacket or be an “odd” fabric. For more formal events, the black waistcoat should be worn, especially for services concerning government and funerals. For less formal events that are more social, such as weddings or the Royal Ascot, a contrasting waistcoat is worn in a wide array of colors such as grey, buff yellow, camel tan, eggshell, pastel blue and lavender. The fabrics can be wool, heavy linen or silk. You can wear either single-breasted or double-breasted style waistcoats. The front of the waistcoat should cover the waistband of the trousers. 

Morning trouser style

The morning trouser is often a grey and black striped wool fabric in a pattern called a “cashmere stripe”. An alternative option would be grey glen plaid or black and white houndstooth check. Trouser rises should be higher so the waistcoat covers the trouser waistband. Fronts can be either plain or pleated and the trouser is worn with braces (suspenders) and no cuffs. 

Morning wear dress shirt style

The appropriate dress shirt to wear with a morning suit is a spread collar with French cuffs, no pocket and a plain front. The collar should be a contrasting “banker” white collar and the body either plain blue, pink, yellow, or lavender. The shirt may also be striped, but is considered more casual. A plain white shirt should NOT be worn with morning dress. 

Other morning suit furnishings

A top hat is also famously worn (often made from beaver) and gloves can be worn as well (yellow chamois with a black jacket). A white linen pocket square in the breast pocket is appropriate. For neckties, a traditional “wedding tie” in grey-black in micro houndstooth, shepherd’s check or glen plaid. Shoes should be black, polished (but not patent leather) in an oxford lacing style and most often with black silk socks. 

The alternative 3-piece morning suit

A less formal version of morning dress is a 3-piece morning suit that’s all made from the same fabric, often in a sharkskin grey. This would be appropriate for social and festive events like a wedding, but not for state functions or funerals.